Sankranti

Hello!

So, there is not too much going on here in India right now outside of work. However, there is one special little holiday which took place this past Thursday, Jan. 14th: SANKRANTI!

For those of you who have read Kite Runner this is the holiday the book is named after. For the past three days the rooftops of India have been filled with children flying kites and the sky has become a beautiful mosaic of kites in all colors, shapes and sizes. I have tried to take pictures but, of course, none of them did any justice and so I will not be posting them. They look like a picture of an overcast sky with some spots in it (which are kites).

Perhaps the most interesting part of the holiday is the competitions which go on among the kite flyer's. On most of the kites, the first 50 yards of string are laced in glass - this is to allow for 'cutting' of other kites. Here, flying kites is an art form and coveted skill. On Thursday, during the celebrations I went to a country club with friends and witnessed some teams of very competitive flyers. These competitions typically lead to lots of sliced fingers as the men pull and struggle with the kites trying to cut their competitors. It is really pretty cool!

I guess it is these types of holidays that really remind you how far from home you are. The energy and enthusiasm with which people fly kites here is sort of baffling to me but it is also a deeply rooted cultural tradition, and one which is slowly losing its meaning to the younger generations of Indians. In fact, this holiday has sparked more then one interesting conversation between myself and my Indian friends/acquaintances. Like any culture going through serious transition and development, here in Hyderabad and likely many other parts of India there is a constant push and pull of old and new: what will be salvaged and what will be left behind.

In some of these conversations I have witnessed a deep sadness among the parents who have seen Hyderabad change so drastically in the past 5-10 years. One parent in particular spoke to me about how much of the culture identity has become an identity of convenience. When talking about Sankranti he described as a child how different it was and how so many more people participated and the real gravity of the holiday. He guessed that participation had dropped by nearly 75% since he was a child.

And I guess behind all the sadness what I see is a real fear. A fear for the identities of their children and the deep set cultural values of 'traditional' India. I see it here everyday as people struggle with their identities as "Non-resident Indians" (Indians who were born in another country but are still of Indian heritage but did not grown up in India). And, the more I witness it the more I realize that this identity crisis might certainly become on of India's most challenging battles yet.

It is inevitable that the culture of India will change as it grows more wealthy, modern and educated. Seldom do people stop to consider what it is they would like to hang onto as they rush in the new. Certainly there are many advantages that come with education and wealth. It is my hope that the women of India will continue to gain traction in the choices they are allowed to make as well as the lives they choose to lead and I know that education and the influence of empowered women from around the world will be nothing but positive. I also know that education is likely the only way to solve population and disease issues as well as maternal and child health challenges.

The truth is India is becoming more and more Westernized (for lack of a better word) and the more developed and large the city is the more Western the people are. I can imagine and empathize with the father who watches his daughter walk the streets in mini-skirts and tank tops in a culture where women have always been considered somewhat 'sacred'. But then, of course, I can't help but realize that this is a form of empowerment, of having choice. The point is, the issue is so very complex and the solution is not clear or obvious and perhaps not something which can be controlled at all. But, I think it is worth thinking on and being aware of. Culture is important and helps to inform identity and values. Every culture has the good and the bad.

What I do know is I would be deeply sad to see the day when Saris weren't seen on every street and rickshaws didn't spot the roadway like ants.

And, it would be tragic to witness the day when no one flew kites during Sankranti.